Musquee de Provence Pumpkin
Photo ©Evie Saffron Strands
NOVEMBER
The end of October brought a shift from Scottish Chanterelles and Girolles to fungi from France and Italy. Muscat and Chasselas Grapes saw October out and the French Quince arrived to perfume our shelves. English Apple and Pear varieties changed through the month and Winter Squash and Pumpkins swept away any attempt at denial that mid-autumn had arrived, despite some beautiful warm days in London.
Chicoria (Catalogna Naturala)
Photo ©Evie Saffron Strands
Right now, produce coming through our doors is truly autumnal. The array of earthy root vegetables and mildly bitter brassicas is increasing by the week. Italy and France are contributing too with Artichokes, Radishes and Chicories. Navelina Oranges are already arriving from Italy to top up the Clementines coming in from both Italy and Spain. Writing on 3 November, we see:
British Brassicas including Black Cabbage (Cavolo Nero) and Kale, Brussel Sprouts and Brussel Tops, Cauliflower and Romanesco, deep-green, crinkly Savoy Cabbage and beautiful green and purple January King Cabbage.
English Purple Sprouting Broccoli and outstanding Rainbow Chard bring vibrancy to the arch.
Root vegetables including Swede, Beetroot, organic Heritage Carrots, Parsley Root, Celeriac and Jerusalem Artichokes are all British grown this week, as are the Leeks and the first Fenland Celery.
Eau de Nil Kohlrabi and small white Tokyo Turnips from Italy and, of course, we have Roscoff Onions from France.
From France we have various crunchy Radishes and fat cigar-like Salsify.
From Italy, the cold-weather bitter greens are coming into their own with Puntarelle (Catalogna), Chicoria (Catalogna Naturala), and Cime di Rapa (Rapini). More ‘bitters’ are here in the form of Radicchio Treviso, Castelfranco and Escarole and we have beautiful Spiky Artichokes from Sardinia too.
Winter Squash and Pumpkins are to the fore now, including English Red Kuri (Onion Squash), French Spaghetti Squash and Musquee de Provence Pumpkins and Delica Pumpkins from Italy.
Watercress from our Sussex Farmer continues to arrive and we have English Walnuts too.
Mushrooms from Europe this week include Chanterelles, Porcini, Milk Caps (Lactarius) and orange/white hued Ovoli (named for its resemblance to an egg when very young).
Potato varieties are increasing. This week we have Cyprus and Desiree and both of our waxy-fleshed favourites: English Pink Fir Apple and La Ratte from France.
Lautrec Garlic and Smoked Garlic from France continue.
Apple varieties from our Kent farmer this week are Cox, Spartan and Russet and we have Bramley cooking apples from them too. The Pears have been particularly good this year and we have varieties Comice and Conference.
Pomegranates this week come from Sicily and Spain. We also have ripe Cachi/Persimmons from Italy and large Quince from France.
Navelina Oranges have arrived from Italy. They are early so some are a little on the sharp side but perfect for making Caramelised Oranges if they prove too sharp for your taste, and there are Clementines too.
Sicilian Pomegranates
Photo ©Evie Saffron Strands
So, in the final month of autumn, what produce can we expect to see during the rest of November?
Brassicas including Black Cabbage (Cavolo Nero), Kale and Kohlrabi, Brussel Sprouts and Brussel Tops, Cauliflower and Romanesco, deep-green, crinkly Savoy Cabbage beautiful green and purple January King Cabbage. Most will only benefit from a little cold weather as winter approaches.
Root vegetables will come more to the fore, including Tokyo Turnips, Swede, British organic Heritage Carrots, Parsley Root, Celeriac and Jerusalem Artichokes. Fat cigar-like Salsify and Artichokes will be around too. English Leeks will only get better and short-season Fenland Celery should be with us throughout the month, as should Rainbow Chard.
The cold weather bitter greens from Italy will continue including Puntarelle (Catalogna), Chicoria (Catalogna Naturala), and Cime di Rapa (Rapini). Bitter leaved Escarole, Castelfranco and the Radicchio family will start to stand out on the shelves.
Winter Squash and Pumpkins like Red Kuri (Onion Squash), Spaghetti Squash, Musquee de Provence Pumpkins and Delica Pumpkins.
Watercress from our Sussex Farmer should continue through November.
The Potato crop is all harvested and varieties we buy will vary. We will continue to have Roscoff Onions.
Apple and Pear harvests are drawing to a close and we will continue to have varieties supplied by our Kent farmer during the month.
Pomegranates and Quince should be on the shelves throughout November and we should have Cachi/Persimmon into November too.
The Navelina Oranges and Clementines should be joined by more varieties of citrus during November. We are as keen as our customers to see the new season crop on our shelves.
As we mourn the loss of late summer/early autumn Tomatoes, we look forward to the arrival of crunchy, salty Camone and Marinda.
Later in the month we will be stocking up on Nuts in their shells, Dried Fruits, FRESH Cranberries and vacuum-packed Chestnuts for those customers who want to shop early for Christmas.
Umami Sea Slaw
Photo © Puntarelle&Co Ltd
NEW in the Fridge:
Umami Sea Slaw Ferment
This week we have added seaweed to our Cabbage ferment to give extra beneficial minerals to this high Vitamin C vegetable. We think this brings a delicious umami flavour to the ferment and makes it a particularly good accompaniment to fish dishes.
Pumpkin & Orange Spice Water Kefir
Photo © Puntarelle&Co Ltd
Our thoughts are turning to a festive Christmas and with this in mind we have introduced this seasonal Water Kefir made with new season pumpkin and Navelina Orange. With notes of orange and gingerbread, we think this warming Kefir catches the mood of the time of year perfectly. Like all our Water Kefirs, this unpasteurized probiotic drink brings beneficial micro-organisms, B vitamins, minerals and enzymes in a slightly sour, zingy, low sugar form.
More about our range of Fermented products at: www. londonfermentary.com
English Cox Apples
Photo ©Evie Saffron Strands
It’s hard to beat a Bramley for a classic apple pie or crumble but where less acidic, firm-fleshed apples are needed, reach for varieties like Laxton Fortune, Cox, Russet, the Blenheim or Braeburn. All have a good balance of sour and sweet. Spices such as anise, cinnamon, nutmeg and vanilla pair well with apples. We like to keep these monthly recipes seasonal and easy and this one definitely ticks both boxes. It comes from Jane Grigson’s invaluable ‘Fruit Book’ and the results are delicious. If you first clarify the butter, its catch-point is higher so you don’t have to watch the cooking constantly, but it’s not essential to do this. You could also use pears in this recipe if you prefer.
Buttered Apples (Serves 1)
30g butter (clarified or unclarified)
1 Apple
2 generous tablespoons caster sugar
A little cinnamon (optional)
A little water, cider or apple juice
A little cream (single, double or whipping)
A small knob of butter
Peel, core and cut the apple into eight wedges. Sprinkle with lemon juice to stop oxidisation if you aren’t ready to cook them immediately.
Heat the butter in a frying pan, dry the apples slices and cook them gently in a single layer. When the underside turns golden brown, turn the slices over and sprinkle with the caster sugar. Cook until caramelised then add the sprinkling of cinnamon, if using. Lift the slices onto a serving dish.
Deglaze the pan with a little water, cider or apple juice (you can also add a little Calvados now, if you like). Keep stirring and add a little cream to make a sauce. Add the small knob of butter then pour the sauce over the apples and serve.