Apricots

Ruby Apricots

Photo © Puntarelle&Co Ltd

Apricots

The Apricot tree blossoms early, soon after the almond, which means that the flowers are very often caught by frost.  The Apricot is a difficult fruit to grow in the UK as the fruits also need to ripen on the tree.  Not that some fruit farmers in southern England don’t try – apricot trees have been cultivated here since the mid-16th century - but success remains a hit and miss affair, subject to the vagaries of our weather.  This is a shame because two of the best varieties of Apricot – Blenheim and Moorpark – were originally bred in England.  In favourable years, the English-grown crops can be good but most often we have to treat them as cookers.  

For Apricots that need very little embellishment, we turn to the warmth of Italy and France, though varieties are limited.  It’s possible to bring out the floral, tropical flavours even in early fruits if you treat them right.  Early crops are best turned into jam, compote, sorbet or pureed for ice cream.  They can also add a lovely sweet-sharpness to savoury stews.  By the end of June Apricots from southern Europe can usually be eaten just as they come.  Generally, the stronger the colour, the sweeter the fruit, and the simpler their treatment should be.

Apricots have an affinity with almonds.  If you crack open an apricot stone you’ll find within a small almond-like kernel, or noyaux, which you can add to your recipe for a touch of bitter almond flavour.  Don’t overdo it, though, as the noyaux contains amygdalin, a compound which converts to cyanide in the body.  Roasting the kernel first extracts this compound.  Green Almonds are around at the same time as Apricots so try poaching apricots with a little sugar and a vanilla pod until soft but not collapsed and serve scattered with slivers of green almonds; make an Apricot Tart or Galette; with early fruits, make Apricot Jam, for sure; stuff them by halving and pitting the fruit, place cut-side-up in a dish and scatter an almond crumble topping over them before roasting on a medium heat; or make the delicious recipe for Baked Apricots with marzipan filling and almond crumble from Honey&Co: The Baking Book – partially halve and pit the fruits, stuff with a slice of marzipan, brush them with soft butter and roll in demerara sugar before roasting until soft.  Honey&Co make an almond crumble topping flavoured with mahleb (a spice made from cherry kernels), spread it thinly on a baking tray and roast until crisp.  Put the two elements together and serve with cream (their suggestion is for brandy cream).

Baked Apricots with marzipan filling & almond crumble

Photo ©Evie Saffron Strands

Strawberries

Strawberries

Photo ©Puntarelle & Co

Strawberries

Almost all modern cultivated Strawberry varieties derive from two American species, Fragaria virginiana from North America and Fragaria chiloensis from South America.  It wasn’t until the plants were cross-polinated in France in the 18th century that the large, commercially-grown, strawberries we know today became popular, supplanting the European Wild Strawberry varieties we had enjoyed here.  While some recent introductions may be viewed as a hybridisation too far – bred for resilience, size and sweetness at the cost of flavour – with others it’s not difficult to see why they were favoured over the small wild berries.  The larger, sweeter cultivated varieties can usually be kept at least a couple of days.  The small European wild strawberry, Fragaria Vesca, or, as the French call it, fraise de bois still has its place but is best eaten very soon after picking before its intense fragrance dissipates. 

We get some early varieties from France and Italy, notably the French Gariguette which we will have again this week, though at a more reasonable price than at the start of harvest.    The early summer English outdoor-grown fruit, ripened by the sun, are worth waiting for.  This week, the third week of May, we have the first arrival from our preferred farmer in Kent.  The variety is Elizabeth, which will be followed by Jubilee over the next few weeks.

It’s hard to beat the simple pairing of Strawberries and cream.  Strawberry ice cream is divine.  Try slicing a strawberry into a glass of red or white wine.  Add a few berries to poached rhubarb or try pairing strawberries with a few rose petals or leaves of lemon verbena.  If you want something a little different, orange zest, balsamic vinegar or black pepper all complement strawberries.  As the season progresses and prices come down, they also make an incredibly fragrant jam.  Be sure to add lemon juice for a good set as the pectin levels in strawberries is very low.

Tarragon

Tarragon

Photo ©Evie Saffron Strands

Tarragon

Tarragon (or Estragon), Artemisia dracunculus, is a native of western and northern Asia and a member of the lettuce family.  There are two varieties of this herb – the wild one that’s often called Russian Tarragon and which has quite a harsh flavour; and French Tarragon, which is more delicate and has a distinct anise aroma.  The French variety has more uses in the kitchen.  

Tarragon combined with chervil, parsley and chives makes the French classic fines herbes mix.  It has many uses in French cuisine, from flavouring sauces to adding to chicken, fish and egg dishes.  A simple omelette aux fines herbes is a beautiful thing.  Tarragon is the essential herb to create the classic béarnaise sauce.  Tarragon compliments asparagus when paired with eggs and it brings a welcome bitter anise note to temper the sweetness of both peas and carrots.  Try slow-cooking courgettes in olive oil and butter until soft and mushy, add chopped tarragon and season – delicious just with bread or served with lentils.  Or soften a chopped shallot in butter, add sliced mushrooms and cook to brown, then finish with a little extra butter, a splash of cream and some chopped tarragon. Pile onto toast.  

Fatty fish, particularly salmon, and sea trout, are good with a creamy tarragon sauce.  Melted butter scented with tarragon poured over Lobster is a great simple way to serve a luxurious ingredient.

Georgian and Caucasian food is becoming more appreciated in London of late, thanks in large part to the work of food writer Olia Hercules.  There is a distinct fondness for the herb tarragon, or tarkhuna which is also the name of a tarragon- flavoured soft drink of the region.  Tarragon, onion and eggs (and sometimes greens) are combined as a filling for a leavened yogurt dough pie.  There’s a stew of lamb or veal, punchy with tarragon, called Chakapuli; and there’s Kharcho, a stew made from chicken which is fragrant with tarragon.  You can make a cordial from lemon, tarragon and cucumber too – maybe a bit more interesting than lemonade.

And don’t just think of tarragon for savoury dishes.  The herb brings a wonderful anise flavour to nectarines, peaches and plums.  Oven-bake the fruits, sliced in half and stone removed, in a little sugar syrup and a few leaves of tarragon, for an easy pudding.  Or make a tarragon-infused custard for ice cream and fold through a puree of peach or nectarine.

You can preserve any leftover tarragon by hanging it up to dry, or you can preserve it as Tarragon butter.  Simply chop the herb and add to creamed butter, roll into a log and freeze for using by the slice as you need it – maybe on a juicy steak or a fillet of fish.  

As I write this in late spring you’ll find the best tarragon is coming through our arch right now – and, of course, we use it in our London Fermentary ferments.

Tarragon

Photo ©Puntarelle&Co Ltd

May 2018 Seasonal News

English Asparagus

Photo ©Evie Saffron Strands

MAY

This time last year we were talking of having had English Asparagus at the beginning of April, only for it then to be hit by late frosts.  This year we collected our first Kent-grown crop last week.  Despite it feeling late, it was around St George’s Day which is the traditional time for starting to cut the crop.  It’s hard to resist people’s desire for earlier harvests but nature knows best and this year’s first cut of English Asparagus from our preferred grower was definitely worth the wait.  

April passed in the UK feeling very similar to March.  Save for a few days of warmth mid-month, conditions have been unseasonably cold in most of Europe delaying spring planting.  Italy did provide us with Broad Beans, Peas and Cucumbers; France delivered Wet Garlic and Fraise Clery Strawberries; and the UK produced Jersey Royals, Wild Garlic, Sprouting Broccoli, field-grown Rhubarb and the first good Asparagus.  A burst of sun arrived in the form of Mangoes from India, including Alphonso.  We are definitely overdue some good growing weather.     

Wet Garlic

Photo ©Evie Saffron Strands

As a result of the weather, now at the beginning of MAY, you will find the following at Puntarelle & Co:

Earthy, saline Jersey Royal Potatoes and versatile Cypress Potatoes.

Vitamin C, iron and calcium-rich Spring Nettle Tops, both English and French (bag with care!).

Some late English Wild Garlic leaves.

Watercress from our preferred English grower, Kingfisher. 

UK-grown sweet, juicy Cucumbers and mild, crunchy Spring Onions.

Italian Ridged Cucumbers 

From Italy, Romano and Tondo Courgettes. 

Wispy Wild Asparagus and Bruscandoli (hop shoots) from Italy.

From our Kent Grower, English green Asparagus, both fat-speared and thin sprue, tasting really delicious this year.  Also European purple and white Asparagus varieties.

New Spring season Rainbow Chard from Italy.  

Italian Peas and Broad Beans.

Fat, sweet, stems of Wet Garlic from France (don’t forget most of the stalk is useable too.

Outdoor-grown Rhubarb, picked up from our preferred farmer in Kent who also grows our Asparagus.

Strawberries this week are from France and Italy.  We expect English ones in a couple of weeks’ time.

There are French Heritage Tomatoes along with large Pineapple Tomatoes, and the salty, crunchy Marinda and Camone Tomatoes that have seen us through winter are still with us.

Spring varieties of Radish.

Cool weather harvests of bitter Radicchio and Chicories like Puntarelle and Cime de Rapa from Italy are still with us and there are Tropea Onions.

Spinach varieties including French.

New season Aubergines from Italy are now coming in more variety of sizes and shapes.

Green and Purple Artichokes, large and small.  

St George’s Mushrooms again (one thing that wasn’t late this year) and Morel Mushrooms too.

As always, we have seasonal herbs but we have pots of growing Spring Herbs as well.

It’s a lean time for European fruits but the Nespole from Italy are in.

Broad Beans

Photo ©Evie Saffron Strands

So, what produce can we expect to come through our doors in MAY?

Earthy, saline Jersey Royal Potatoes and some French new potatoes too. 

Vitamin C, iron and calcium-rich Spring Nettle Tops, both English and French (bag with care!).

Watercress from our preferred English grower, Kingfisher. 

UK-grown sweet, juicy Cucumbers and mild, crunchy Spring Onions will continue.

Ridged Cucumbers for preserving from Eastern Europe.

Increasing varieties of Courgettes from Italy.

Wispy Wild Asparagus from Italy.

From our Kent Grower, English green Asparagus, both fat-speared and thin sprue.  Also European purple and white Asparagus varieties.

Rainbow Chard.  

Italian Peas and Broad Beans.

Fat, sweet, stems of Wet Garlic from France (don’t forget most of the stalk is useable too).

Outdoor-grown Rhubarb, picked up from our preferred farmer in Kent who also grows our Asparagus.

Strawberries from France and Italy.  Early English ones from our favourite grower should be with us by the third week in May.

French Heritage Tomatoes, large Pineapple Tomatoes and, hopefully, some other interesting varieties.

Spring varieties of Radish.

Italian Tropea Onions and French Grelot Onions.

Spinach varieties including French.

New season Aubergines from Italy in a variety of shapes and sizes. 

Seasonal herbs including pots of growing Spring Herbs.

It’s still a lean time for European fruits but expect Nespole from Italy throughout the month.

Nespole/Loquats

Photo ©Evie Saffron Strands

Focus on:

Nespole have arrived from Italy.  In early spring, just as our stores of apples are emptying and before strawberries come good, they are a welcome sight.  Looking a little like apricots, they can be smooth or slightly downy-skinned and vary from yellow to orange.  They have a succulent flesh, a little tart, a little sweet with a tropical fragrance.  They are a fragile fruit that keep only a couple of days at room temperature but up to a week in a cool place.  They can be poached in sugar syrup and simply served with yogurt or ice cream, or added to a fruit salad.  Under-ripe fruits make good jam and jelly, or chutney which goes well with fatty meats like roast pork.  

Raw Asparagus Salad

Photo ©Evie Saffron Strands

We collected the first cut of English Asparagus from our Kent Grower last week and, despite a return to lacklustre weather, the English season is definitely under way.  Here is a recipe, inspired by our friends at 40 Maltby Street, celebrating the early spears which are delicious eaten raw.  It also makes a few spears go a long way.  

Raw Asparagus Salad

(Serves 4 as a starter)

8-12 asparagus spears
A handful of pea-shoots

A few mint leaves
1 tbsp lemon juice
4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
Salt & pepper

Snap the tough ends off the asparagus.  Cut a diagonal slice off the bottom of each spear then slice them thinly.  Add salt and pepper to the lemon juice and mix.  Whisk in the olive oil to emulsify.  Toss the sliced asparagus and the pea shoots in the dressing.  Pile onto plates and serve.  (Add a few curls or a grating of Italian Parmesan or English Berkswell cheese if you like).  

Asparagus

English Green Asparagus

Photo ©Evie Saffron Strands

Asparagus

Asparagus grows from long-lived rhizomes that spread underground.  The spears are the tender young shoots of Asparagus officinalis that grows into a fernlike plant over a metre tall when harvesting ends. 

The spears start pushing through the ground in early Spring.  In recent years, a variety of ‘early-season’ asparagus has been developed enabling some producers to get an Asparagus crop to market ahead of the game.  Normally, the asparagus farmer has a few weeks of frantic activity harvesting the crop for market, and then it's all over until next year.  Traditionally, in the UK, the season begins around St George's Day (23 April) and by mid-Summer's Day cutting should stop.  The plants continue to put up spears but these are allowed to grow into tall fronds that photosynthesise in order to build up nutrients in the rhizome for next year's crop.  In November the plant is cut back to ground level.  

It takes about three years for an asparagus crown to become established and, if treated right, it can be productive for 10 years.  Harvesting of Asparagus has to be done by hand. The white version is even more labour intensive as the growing spears have to be banked-up with soil to produce the blanched stems.  Popular since the 18th century, white asparagus has a more delicate flavour than the green.  If exposed to light after harvest, white asparagus will turn yellow or reddish.  Purple varieties of asparagus are high in anthocyanins, though, like other purple and red coloured vegetables, cooking results in loss of this colour and it turns green. 

This all adds up to making asparagus one of the most expensive treats of spring and early summer.  Freshness is key to taste so, when you do finally get your hands on it, don't let it linger in the fridge or it will lose its sweetness.  The spears are packed with beneficial nutrients - vitamins A and C, folic acid, potassium and iron.  They have a natural snap-point separating the tough from the tender parts, so, it’s best to bend the spear and snap off the base rather than cut it for cooking.  Young, fresh spears don’t need to be peeled but later ones benefit from peeling the lower 6cm or so.  

The first, fresh Asparagus are fantastic eaten raw.  Slice thinly, and toss in a vinaigrette of lemon juice, olive oil, salt and pepper.  The wispy early spears marketed as ‘Wild Asparagus’, or later thin spears known as sprue, are wonderful for par-boiling then adding to an omelette or frittata.  Thicker spears can be plunged into boiling water for a few minutes until just tender – melted butter, mayonnaise or hollandaise sauce are good accompaniments.  Asparagus has an affinity with eggs so pairing them is a very good idea.  To cook the spears on a griddle or to roast them in the oven in olive oil, par-boiling for one minute in boiling water first is recommended.  

In this the week of St George’s Day, the English crop of Green Asparagus is thrusting through the soil to join the green, white, purple and wild Asparagus coming in from the rest of Europe.

Wild Asparagus

Photo ©Evie Saffron Strands

april 2018 seasonal news

Seasonal Table at Puntarelle@Co

Photo ©Puntarelle&Co Ltd

APRIL

This time last year we were talking of the new spring planting season in the UK being properly under way.  How different things are this year.  We may be looking forward to Asparagus and early strawberries, but the outdoor grown English asparagus from our Kent growers is 2-3 weeks away.  Last year we had the first cut 19th of March.  But we should remember that last year was unusual.  A mild start to Spring meant an early harvest but Asparagus towards the end of April is actually the norm.  Only the bigger producers can get a crop to market earlier.  A few boxes of strawberries grown under cover are coming in but there will be a bit of a wait for the sunkissed ones.  

While we wait for the sun to appear, we’re grateful for the English Wild Garlic leaves, Spring Nettle Tops and Jersey Royal Potatoes that are available.  Glad too to have Italian Broad Beans, Peas, Asparagus and Hop Shoots.  And to have the Wet Garlic bulbs from Morocco that have been arriving for the past three weeks which changed to Italian this week.

Morel Mushrooms

Photo ©Puntarelle&Co Ltd

At the beginning of April, as I write this, you will find:

Earthy, saline Jersey Royal Potatoes. 

Vitamin C, iron and calcium-rich Spring Nettle Tops, both English and Italian (bag with care!).

Wild Garlic leaves, this week English ones and we have Watercress from our preferred English grower too. 

The first of the season’s UK-grown sweet, juicy Cucumbers and mild, crunchy Spring Onions have arrived.

The First Italian Ridged Cucumbers and Romano Courgettes. 

Wispy Wild Asparagus from Italy, as well as fat spears of the purple and white Asparagus varieties.

The last of the Purple Sprouting Broccoli but there’s new Spring season Rainbow Chard from Italy.  

Again this week, sweet Italian Peas and Broad Beans and bulbs of Wet Garlic from Italy too.

Outdoor-grown Rhubarb, from our preferred farmer in Kent, has taken over from Yorkshire Forced Rhubarb.

Just a few boxes of English-grown Strawberries this week but we do have beautiful Strawberries from Italy.

There are English Heritage Tomatoes too along with large Provence Tomatoes, and the Marinda and salty, crunchy Camone Tomatoes that have seen us through winter are still with us.

Radishes are changing from winter varieties to spring ones and this week, we have French Heritage Radishes.

Cool weather harvests of bitter Radicchio and Chicories like Puntarelle and Cime de Rapa from Italy are still with us and there are Tropea Onions and Spinach too.

New season Aubergines from Italy are now coming in more variety of sizes and shapes and there are Spring season Green and Purple Artichokes, large and small.  

St George’s Mushrooms (one thing that isn’t late) and Morel Mushrooms too.

As always, we have seasonal herbs but this week we have pots of growing Spring Herbs as well.

Italian New Season Cucumbers

Photo ©Puntarelle&Co Ltd

So, what produce can we expect to come through our doors before the end of APRIL? 

Earthy, saline Jersey Royal Potatoes should see us through April. 

Vitamin C, iron and calcium-rich Spring Nettle Tops (bag with care!).

English Wild Garlic leaves through most of the month.

Sweet, juicy UK-grown Cucumbers and Italian Ridged Cucumbers may be joined by pickling cucumbers from Eastern Europe this month.

Mild, crunchy English Spring Onions throughout the month.

Wispy Wild Asparagus from Italy may be joined by some English grown late in the month.  And, if we finally get some sun and warmth, fat spears of English Aparagus to look forward to.  There could be more Italian Wild Hop Shoots too.

This month sees the last of the Purple Sprouting Broccoli but there’s new Spring season Rainbow Chard from Italy, along with Italian Peas and Broad Beans and Romano Courgettes.

Bulbs of sweet, pungent Wet Garlic from France and Italy .

Outdoor-grown Rhubarb, from our preferred farmer in Kent will continue.

Strawberries from Italy, France and the UK will become more abundant and tastier.  Expect some French Gariguette Strawberries.  

Spring season English Heritage Tomatoes and some varieties from France and Italy will arrive this month, easing out the salty, crunchy Camone and Marinda Tomatoes that have seen us through winter.

Radishes are changing from winter varieties to spring ones this month and will arrive in greater quantities.

Watercress from our preferred English grower and, maybe, some from France.

New season Aubergines from Italy in more variety of size and shape.  

Green and Purple Artichokes, large and small.  

St George’s Mushrooms and Morel Mushrooms.

We expect Nespoli (Loquats) to arrive from Italy this month. 

There may be a chance of English-grown Broad Beans and Peas this month.  Given the unseasonal weather, we shall see.  

Pots of growing Spring Herbs along with our usual herb sprigs.

Fermented Garlic with Lemon,Ginger,Tirmeric&Lemon

Photo ©Puntarelle&Co

NEWS:

Thanks to the feedback and support of our customers, our London Fermentary products have grown to the point where we feel it necessary to give them their own social media presence!  If you follow Puntarelle_Co on Instagram and/or on Twitter, we’d love it if you would show your support by also following us  @london_fermentary on Instagram and/or @LDNFermentary on Twitter.  We’ll be able to keep you informed with news, like what seasonal Ferments you can expect to find each month.  

And while we are on the subject, filling the gap between winter and spring this month we have a Honey & Camomile with warming ginger and turmeric Water Kefir for you.  And, by popular request, our immune-boosting jars of Honey fermented with garlic, ginger, turmeric and lemon are back in stock.

Apart from being delicious, these unpasteurised fermented drinks bring beneficial micro-organisms, B vitamins, minerals and enzymes in a slightly sour, zingy, low-sugar form.  More about our range of Fermented products at: www.londonfermentary.com

Spring Nettle Tops

Photo ©Evie Saffron Strands

Rich in vitamins and minerals, including Vitamin C, iron and calcium, considering Nettles as a weed seriously undervalues their nutritional benefits.  Here at Puntarelle & Co we have them in Spring and early Summer when they are at their vigorous best.  Like everything that grows wild, you need to be sure it has grown in a clean environment if you are going to eat it.  Buy from us or, if you have a trusted patch near you, go out and snip the tops.  Take care picking them or filling your bag as they pack a mighty sting until subjected to brief heat or cold.

Here is an idea for using them:

Nettle & Spinach Soup

(Serves 4)

Around 350g (12 oz) nettle tops

Around 350g (12 oz) spinach or chard

50g (2 oz) butter or olive oil

2 leeks or onions, sliced

1 medium potato, diced (optional)

Around 1 litre (1¾ pints) vegetable stock

Salt and pepper

Cream to serve

Wash the nettle tops carefully (they sting until cooked) and the spinach or chard and drain both.

In a large pan, melt the butter and add the sliced leeks or onions.  Cook, without colouring, for 5-10 minutes to soften.  (Add diced potato at this point if you want a heartier soup).  Add the nettles and spinach or chard, cover and cook until just wilted.  Pour in the stock, bring to the boil then simmer for 20 minutes. 

Liquidise then reheat and season with salt and pepper.  

Serve with a spoonful of cream atop each bowl of soup.

Nettle and Spinach Soup

Photo ©Evie Saffron Strands

Broccoli

Purple Sprouting Broccoli

Photo ©Evie Saffron Strands

Broccoli

Most of the common vegetables around today have been eaten since before recorded history.  One exception is Broccoli.  Cauliflower, Brussels sprouts and Celery are also relative newcomers.  Broccoli is a member of the Brassica family.  Two native brassicas, one from the Mediterranean and one from Central Asia, are responsible for more than a dozen common vegetables on our plates.  Cabbage, Kale, Brussels Sprouts, Cauliflower, Kohlrabi, Chinese Cabbage, Turnip, Broccoli Rabe and Broccoli are amongst them. 

Broccoli, like Cauliflower and Romanesco, is harvested for its immature flowers.  Broccoli Rabe, also known as Rapini and Cime di Rapa is not a true broccoli but the flowers that emerge from the thickened stalk of a variety of turnip (a brassica member).  It’s also sold as ‘broccoletti di rape’, meaning ‘little sprouts of turnip’.  It can be treated in the same way as true Broccoli.  

Commercially, broccoli is available all year round but it’s really a cool-season vegetable that is at its best from late autumn through to early spring.  The most appreciated variety in the UK is the Purple Sprouting Broccoli. If you grow it, you find it makes a wonderful cut-and-come-again plant.  You simply snap off the small flower stalks.  There is also a white-flowering variety, less often seen.  The thick stalked Calabrese Broccoli variety takes over by July and goes on until October.  When the plant cells are damaged, like all brassicas, broccoli releases bitter, pungent and strong-smelling compounds.  The autumn and winter-grown vegetables are usually milder.  These characteristics make broccoli a love-it or hate-it vegetable.  

In normal years, when the Purple Sprouting Broccoli is coming to an end, the English Asparagus season is starting and both vegetables respond to simple treatment.  Broccoli, like Asparagus, has an affinity with eggs.  It’s also very good with anchovies, cheese and bacon.  Streamed or boiled until just tender, the broccoli can be served with a jug of melted butter or hollandaise sauce, or tossed in a warm of emulsion of melted butter, garlic and tinned anchovies.  You can do what the Romans do and give it the ripassata, or re-passed, treatment – boil the broccoli in salted water until tender, then drain; sauté a crushed garlic clove and chopped fresh or dried chilli in olive oil until the garlic softens; add the greens and a little salt and pepper, turning to coat the greens in the oil for 2-3 minutes.  Eat just as it is, add some cooked pasta to the pan or pile it onto toast and top with a fried egg.

We expect to see over-wintered Purple Sprouting Broccoli around for another 3-4 weeks.  It will be followed by mild Broccolini, also known as Tenderstem, which is actually a cross between broccoli and a Chinese kale, and there will be broccoli Calabrese too.  

Watercress

Photo ©Evie Saffron Strands

Watercress

As we enter spring, bunches of peppery Watercress stand out on our shelves.  This semi-aquatic herb, Nasturtium officinale, grows wild in British lowland streams and ditches but it’s not advisable to collect it because of the risk of liver fluke, spread by cattle and sheep.  Watercress-growing depends on pure, mineral rich spring or borehole water for healthy growth.  Growers practice a regime of flooding and draining to provide just the right conditions.  At one time it was a crop that petered out in May when the flowers appeared.  These days the season can be extended by the grower rotating the beds for replanting seedlings or by planting a late-flowering variety that allows Watercress to be cultivated through most of the summer.  There is a natural lull in growth in the cold of winter too, though some growers cover their Watercress beds with plastic tunnels to extend the season. 

We know the Greeks and Romans valued Watercress.  Dr Nicholas Culpepper, in his Complete Herbal, championed the health-giving properties of watercress in 1653 – “Water-cress potage is a good remedy to cleanse the blood in the spring and help headaches and consume the gross humours winter has left behind; those that would live in health may use it as they please, if they will not, I cannot help it.”  It was not grown on any great scale here until the beginning of the 19th century.  In 1808 William Bradbury cultivated Cress in Springhead, Kent.  Victorian London was so enamoured of Watercress that it was transported daily to the city from Alton in Hampshire by train on what was known as The Watercress Line.  In the 1940’s more than 1,000 acres of land in England were being cultivated for watercress growing but by the end of the 20th century this had shrunk to only 150 acres, mostly in southern counties where the chalk soils are ideal.    

The health benefits of Watercress now have scientific backing and it is recognised as a food with high nutritional value .  Recent scientific research has shown that high levels of antioxidants, such as are present in Watercress, can increase the ability of cells to resist damage, helping to protect against the cell changes that can lead to some diseases.  This member of the brassica family, related to mustard, is high in vitamins A, C and K and has high levels of calcium, iron and folate.  In fact it has more than 15 important vitamins and minerals contained in its punchy leaves and stems.  Experiments carried out by the Ministry of Health in the 1930s concluded that Watercress was excellent for promoting children’s growth and so it was made a staple ingredient in school dinners.  The respected food historian and journalist, Derek Cooper, recalls being taken on outings to the Regent Park Zoon where, eating at the café, Watercress was offered ‘Ad Lib’.  It was often eaten in sandwiches at breakfast time, though in poorer homes it was eaten on its own, which earned it the nickname “poor man’s bread”.  

Sweet, spicy and tender when grown properly, it can be harsh and bitter when not given the right conditions to thrive.  Watercress and rocket are inter-changeable in most dishes.  It’s mostly thought of as a salad leaf but don’t throw away the stems which are juicy and contain much of the flavour.  Pair watercress with orange segments and some toasted almonds for a simple salad; toss watercress, pieces of blue cheese (like Stilton or Stichelton), sliced pears and walnuts in a honey vinaigrette; serve alongside roast chicken or beef; pair with buttery scrambled eggs or fold into an omelette; finely chop with spinach, tarragon or  parsley and add to a cream or egg based sauce to eat with salmon or chicken; make a creamy watercress soup; or a watercress sandwich with wholemeal bread and butter.

Watercress has a definite preference for coolness rather than heat or cold so we look forward to the spring season for Watercress.  Right now, in late March, we have Watercress from France.  Soon we will welcome our English-grown bunched Watercress.  

Watercress soup

Photo ©Evie Saffron Strands

Radishes

White   Radish

Photo © Puntarelle & Co

Radishes

A member of the mustard family, Raphanus sativus, the Radish is native to Western Asia.  Cultivated for thousands of years they had reached the Mediterranean by the time of the ancient Egyptians and Greeks. In Egypt, labourers working on the pyramids were given rations of garlic and radishes.  The Greeks even made votive offerings to Apollo in the form of models of radishes in gold – turnips merited the use of lead, and beetroots were rendered in silver.  The Romans were early appreciators of the radish too.   

Shaped by human selection, the Radish now comes in many forms and colours, from pure white throughout; black with white flesh; a form that is green outside and red within; a variety called Blue Moon which is pale purple of skin and has striated purple and white flesh; and others that have deep-red skins at the top, fading to white at the base, or are completely round and red-skinned.  They also come in a huge variety of sizes from the small, elongated Breakfast Radish to large varieties of Daikon, or Mouli, which can grow to more than 30cm long and weigh as much as 3kg.  All share a crisp texture and varying degrees of pepperiness.  If left in the warmth too long, radishes will soften.   Place them in a bowl of iced water for an hour or so and they will regain much of their crispness.  

In early Spring, it’s the small red, or red and white, Radish that catches the eye.  They take only 3-4  weeks to grow and are best grown early as summer’s heat can turn them harsh and woody unless watered assiduously.  They are best simply washed and eaten raw with salt, bread and butter.  Larger varieties can grow through the summer until harvested in the autumn.  Firm and drier, these later varieties can be roasted or braised.  The long, white Asian Daikon/Mouli is relatively mild and can be used raw or cooked.  Most of the heat in radishes lies in the skin, so peeling moderates the heat.  Cooking them deactivates the peppery enzyme and brings out their sweetness.  

Serve small, spring radishes with a bowl of salt; with carrots, young peas or mangetouts and dip them into a bowl of mayonnaise or a garlicky aioli; dip radishes into a bagna cauda sauce (melt anchovies into olive oil and garlic before whisking in butter).  Make a radish sandwich – butter brown bread, add a layer of radish leaves and top with sliced radishes and season with salt.  The leaves of radish add a light pepperiness to a bowl of salad leaves too.  Larger types, like Daikon/Mouli, can be sliced, mixed with chicory leaves and finely sliced fennel, or paired with anchovy.  Both ways are good with a citrus and olive oil dressing.  Radishes pickle well too.  Personally, we wouldn’t cook radish.  It’s the peppery crunch that makes them so appealing, so, if you want a mild pepperiness, maybe you should reach for a turnip instead.  

Black radish 

Photo © Puntarelle & Co

Blue Meat Radish  &  Green Radish   

Photo © Puntarelle & Co

Seasonal Produce News-March 2018

Sicilian Tarocco Fire Oranges

Photo ©Evie Saffron Strands

MARCH

Through February, British-grown hardy brassicas and winter stores of root crops have been essentials in our kitchens.  The pink and red stems of Yorkshire Forced Rhubarb, vibrant Radicchio leaves and fragrant Sicilian Citrus brought colour to our lives in what has turned out to be a truly wintery scene.  As I write, heavy snow is falling.  Here in London, sturdy boots and warm scarves and hats are essential.  Even southern Europe hasn’t been spared this winter. 

In March, to add to our greens and roots, we are at our most reliant on southern Europe whose milder temperatures give their farmers a head-start over our own growers.  We turn to South Africa and South America for a few items.  This month we would normally expect the first of our supplies of deliciously sweet peas, tender broad beans, pungent wild garlic leaves and juicy wet garlic to propel us into spring.  The latest blast of cold, when even Rome has been blanketed in snow, comes just as they are raising early spring crops in southern Europe.  Spare a thought for growers here in Britain and throughout the rest of Europe right now.

Sardinian Spiky Artichokes

Photo ©Evie Saffron Strands

We are very proud of our Citrus, much of it untreated and directly sourced from Sicily.  Crates of Leafy Lemons, juicy Navel Oranges, Tarocco Oranges, Pink Grapefruits and highly-perfumed Mandarins have been delivered in increasing variety since late December.  Last week Kumquats arrived and we hope for more red-fleshed Moro Oranges.  

At the beginning of March here at Puntarelle & Co we have:

British Brassicas including Savoy Cabbage, green and purple hued January King, blistered-leaved Black Cabbage/Cavolo Nero, Kale, Brussels Sprouts and Brussels Tops, and Purple Sprouting Broccoli.  We have Kohlrabi too.

For Roots, which store well, there are Jerusalem Artichokes, Beetroot, Turnips, Swede, Celeriac, Potatoes and Carrots.  Leeks, which are happy in cold ground, are still coming in from the fields. 

Yorkshire Forced Rhubarb is reaching its peak.  Its stalks are a little thicker and more deeply coloured now, and are tasting at their best.

Untreated Sicilian Citrus in the form of Leafy Lemons, juicy Tarocco Oranges, Pink Grapefruits, sweet Mandarins Nova and common Mandarins.  We have a small number of highly-coloured Tarocco Fire Oranges  this week.  And, via the Milan market, we have Bergamots and Cedro.

There may be snow on the ground but this week sees the first Broad Beans, Fresh Peas, Wild Asparagus, cultivated Purple Asparagus from warmer climes.  We have Minestra Cabbage and Broccolo di Bassano from Italy.

There is vitamin and mineral packed Italian Spinach and Chard and colourful bitter-leaved heads of Radicchio.  There’s Puntarelle Chicory and Cime di Rapa too.

Crunchy, juicy Agretti/Monk’s Beard continues, an excellent accompaniment to fish or simply blanched and tossed in anchovy butter.

Spiky Sardinian Artichokes and globes of Romaneschi Artichokes are still with us and, this week, we have the medium-sized Tema Artichokes and the small purple Petit Violet Artichokes too.  

There are Pale green Italian Courgettes, crisp Radish, and crunchy red Tropea Onions.

Providing tasty Tomatoes through winter is a challenge but the green seasonal Marinda and salty, crunchy Camone are welcome, and they are at their best now. 

A small amount of Wild Garlic Leaves, as these have been affected by the weather.

We also have some wonderfully fleshy, semi-dried Black Olives from Italy this week.

Pink Radicchio – La Rosa del Veneto

Photo ©Evie Saffron Strands

So, what can we look forward to in the month of March (weather permitting)?

The first Wet Garlic from France and Italy.

English and French Wild Garlic leaves – sparse until it recovers from this cold spell.  

Early Broad Beans, Fresh Peas, Wild Asparagus, cultivated Purple Asparagus, Minestra Cabbage and Broccolo di Bassano from Italy.  Fragrant Candonga Strawberries from Italy and Gariguette Strawberries from France .  

The last of the Yorkshire Forced Rhubarb, its stalks thicker and more deeply coloured but tasting at its best.

Pale green Italian Courgettes and deep red, crunchy Tropea Onions.

Untreated Sicilian and other Italian Citrus.  Expect Lemons, oranges, Bergamots and Cedro.  

British Brassicas including Savoy Cabbage, green and purple hued January King, blistered-leaved Black Cabbage/Cavolo Nero, Kale, Brussels Sprouts and Brussels Tops, and Purple Sprouting Broccoli should be with us throughout.

English-grown Jerusalem Artichokes.  They store well and so continue to be available, as do Beetroot, Turnips, Swede, Celeriac, Potatoes and Carrots.  English Leeks too.

Italian Spinach, Chard, Cime di Rapa and members of the Chicory family, along with colourful bitter-leaved Radicchio.

Crunchy, juicy Agretti/Monk’s Beard will be around all through the month, excellent with fish or simply blanched and tossed in anchovy butter.

Expect to see Spiky Sardinian Artichokes, globes of Romaneschi Artichokes, medium-sized Tema Artichokes, the small purple Petit Violet Artichokes and Piccolo Artichokes too.  

Providing tasty Tomatoes at this time of year is a challenge but the winter Marinda and salty, crunchy Camone continue and are at their best now.  By the end of the month we hope to have some tasty new season hot-house varieties arriving.

Stimulating, iron-rich spring Nettles should be arriving from France soon, possibly before the end of the month. 

Expect early Jersey Royal Potatoes and the French Ile de Ré and Noirmoutier Potatoes.  All coastal-grown roots that bring a welcome rush of earthy salinity at this time of year.

Spring onions should start to arrive this month and, there could be home-grown Radishes.

We may see the first Morel Mushrooms - usually the first come from Canada, followed by Turkish ones.

London Fermentary Water Kefirs

Photo ©Puntarelle&Co

NEW on our shelves:    

Right now our seasonal Water Kefirs take advantage of the fantastic winter fruits that are coming through our doors.  These include Yorkshire Rhubarb, Sicilian Blood Orange and Sicilian Wonder Mandarin.  As those of you who are familiar with our Water Kefirs know, there is much more to them than their beautiful jewel-like colours.  Apart from being delicious, these unpasteurised fermented drinks bring beneficial micro-organisms, B vitamins, minerals and enzymes in a slightly sour, zingy, low-sugar form.  More about our range of Fermented products at: www.londonfermentary.com

Photo ©Evie Saffron Strands

If you need a little inspiration for what to cook in March, here’s a suggestion:

Greens, bacon, cream & mustard

(Serves 4)

Ingredients:

500g of greens - broccoli, kale, kalettes, sprout tops or cabbage, washed and cut into manageable pieces

200g bacon (smoked or unsmoked), cut into small pieces

100ml single or double cream

2 tablespoons of grain mustard

Salt and pepper to season

Method:

Bring a pan of water to the boil and add salt.  Add the greens and cook until just tender.  Drain and plunge into iced water then drain.  Put aside.

Fry the bacon pieces until crisp.  Add the cooked greens, tossing them in the bacon fat until nicely coated.  

On a low heat, add the cream and the mustard, and season with salt and pepper, mixing everything well.  

Serve with bread for mopping up the juices.

Seasonal Produce News-February 2018

January King Cabbages

Photo ©Evie Saffron Strands

FEBRUARY

January was a month when no two days seemed alike with oddly fluctuating temperatures but British-grown Brassicas and roots seemed to cope well.  In our January Report, we promised you Sicilian Citrus and it was worth waiting for.  Tarocco blood oranges, Nova Mandarins and Pink Grapefruits came on our direct-sourced pallets, and there is more citrus to look forward to this month.  Vibrant pink spears of Forced Yorkshire Rhubarb brought more colour and acidity to our shelves and the first fronds of crunchy, salty Agretti arrived too.

Cauliflower

Photo ©Evie Saffron Strands

As we enter the last full month of winter, British-grown Brassicas and Root Vegetables are our seasonal staples and we look to southern Europe for more tender crops.  Far from just a variation on green and brown, February’s colour palette is a vibrant one in the Puntarelle arch.  Right now we have:

Vibrant pink-stemmed Yorkshire Forced Rhubarb. 

Probably the last of the Seville Oranges for making bitter marmalade and buttery curd but there will be common Mandarins that work well too.

Un-treated, un-waxed Tarocco Blood Oranges, Nova Mandarins and Pink Grapefruits.

Deep red, sweet-sharp, Pomegranates.

English Purple Sprouting Broccoli, which is particularly good right now, and, creamy Cauliflowers. 

From Portugal, we have Hispi Cabbage.

Crunchy, salty Italian Camone and Marinda Winter Tomatoes.

From Italy too, bunches of the Mediterranean succulent Barba di Frate/Agretti/Monk’s Beard, Purple Cauliflowers, Rainbow Chard, Bulb Fennel, Roman Artichokes and spikey Sardinian Artichokes.

Bitter-sweet Italian Greens this week are Puntarelle and Cime di Rapa and we have the first of the new season Courgettes.

Several varieties of colourful bitter-sweet pink and red Radicchio and milder-leaved yellow/green Endive.

Vitamin and mineral-rich British Brassicas including Savoy Cabbage, green and purple hued January King, blistered-leaved Black Cabbage/Cavolo Nero, Kale, Brussels Sprouts and Brussels Tops. 

Orange-skinned Onion Squash.

Root vegetables including Celeriac, Jerusalem Artichokes, Swede, Beetroot and organic Heritage Carrots are all British grown this week, as are the Leeks.

Potato varieties this week are Cyprus and Desiree, Maris Piper, and waxy-fleshed La Ratte.

Fresh organic Ginger Root and Turmeric Root.

A freshly-stocked  londonfermentary.com fridge.

Our Ferments    

 Photo ©Puntarelle&Co

Spikey Sardinian Artichokes

Photo ©Puntarelle&Co

Writing in the first few days of February, here is the produce we expect to have for you before this last full month of winter comes to a close:  

Vibrant pink-stemmed Yorkshire Forced Rhubarb will continue throughout the month. 

Un-treated, un-waxed Tarocco Blood Oranges, Nova Mandarins, common Mandarins and Pink Grapefruits will be joined by Lemons, Cedro and Kumquats.

Deep red sweet-sharp Pomegranates.

English Purple Sprouting Broccoli, which is particularly good in February, and creamy Cauliflowers. Hispi Cabbage from southern Europe.

Crunchy, salty Italian Camone and Marinda Winter Tomatoes.

From Italy too, bunches of the Mediterranean succulent Barba di Frate/Agretti/Monk’s Beard, Purple Cauliflowers, Rainbow Chard, Bulb Fennel, Roman Artichokes and spikey Sardinian Artichokes.

Bitter-sweet Italian Greens like Puntarelle and Cime di Rapa and new season Courgettes.

A variety of colourful, bitter-sweet pink and red Radicchio and milder-leaved yellow/green Endive.

Vitamin and mineral-rich British Brassicas including Savoy Cabbage, green and purple hued January King, blistered-leaved Black Cabbage/Cavolo Nero, Kale, Brussels Sprouts and Brussels Tops.

Orange-skinned Onion Squash.

Root vegetables including Celeriac, Jerusalem Artichokes, Swede, Beetroot and organic Heritage Carrots are all British grown this week.

English Leeks and Spanish Calçot onions.

Potato varieties this week are Cyprus and Desiree, Maris Piper, and waxy-fleshed La Ratte.

Fresh organic Ginger Root and Turmeric Root.

A freshly-stocked londonfermentary.com fridge.

Tarocco Orange

Photo ©Evie Saffron Strands

NEWS: 

Have you tried our Pink Rhubarb Water Kefir?  Also this week we have Orange Water Kefir made from some of our Sicilian Tarocco oranges.

Forced Yorkshire Rhubarb & Tarocco Blood Orange about to go in the oven

Photo ©Evie Saffron Strands

Here is a recipe using fruits that are at their best right now – that beautiful pink forced Yorkshire Rhubarb and Sicilian Blood Oranges.  It’s adapted from Nigel Slater’s recipe in Tender Volume II and I can think of no simpler way to celebrate these two wonderful ingredients together.  

Rhubarb with Blood Orange

(serves 4-6)

750g Rhubarb

4 Blood Oranges

Caster Sugar

1 vanilla pod

Heat the oven to 200C (180C Fan).

Rinse the rhubarb, cut off and discard the leaves.  Chop the stems into short lengths and place in an oven-proof dish.

Remove the peel from two of the oranges, cutting away any white pith, then slice the fruit thickly and add it to the rhubarb.

Squeeze the juice from the remaining two oranges, and pour over the rhubarb.

Add a good tablespoon of sugar and the vanilla pod.

Cover the dish with foil and cook in the oven until the rhubarb yields to the pressure of a fork.

Check and adjust the sweetness to your taste.

Allow to cool then spoon into serving glasses, cover with clingfilm, and chill in the fridge for at least an hour but will keep for 2-3 days.

SEASONAL PRODUCE NEWS - JANUARY 2018

Marinda Winter Tomatoes

Photo ©Evie Saffron Strands

JANUARY

An early nip of frost in December brought a tasty mix of English brassicas to our shelves.  Cabbages, Kales, Brussels Sprouts and Tops all benefited from the cold snap.  Italian bitter greens, Radicchio and Endives came to the fore.  Our mourning for the sweet tomatoes of summer was eased by the arrival of crunchy, salty Marinda and Camone winter varieties.   Weather conditions delayed our longed for Sicilian Tarocco Oranges, though we did have some Moro blood oranges for our customers to take home for Christmas.

Yorkshire Forced Rhubarb

Photo ©Evie Saffron Strands

As we enter what is normally the coldest month of the year, there is a surprising amount to look forward to in the fruit and vegetable world to cut through the cold and grey.  Vibrant pink Yorkshire Forced Rhubarb, new season citrus; bitter-sweet yellow/green, pink and red Chicories; and the greens and purples of the brassicas are just the start.  As I write we have:

Tender pink stems of Yorkshire Forced Rhubarb. 

Seville Oranges for making bitter marmalade and buttery curd.

Blood Oranges for juicing or salads.

Deep red sweet-sharp Pomegranates.

Crunchy, salty Camone and Marinda Winter Tomatoes.

Bunches of the Mediterranean succulent Barba di Frate/Agretti/Monk’s Beard.

Bitter-sweet Italian Chicoria including Puntarelle (Catalogna) and Cime di Rapa.

Several varieties of colourful bitter-sweet Radicchio and, milder, Endive.

British Brassicas including Savoy Cabbage, spectacular green and purple hued January King, blistered Black Cabbage (Cavolo Nero), green and purple vitamin and mineral rich Kale, Brussels Sprouts and Brussels Tops which have benefited from a kiss of frost.

Beautiful English Purple Sprouting Broccoli, Cauliflower and swirling lime-green Romanesco, with the creaminess of cauliflower and the taste of broccoli.  

Root vegetables including Celeriac, Jerusalem Artichokes, Swede, Beetroot and organic Heritage Carrots are all British grown this week, as are the Leeks.

A variety of Winter Squash and Pumpkins.

Potato varieties this week are Cyprus and Desiree, Maris Piper, and waxy-fleshed Pink Fir Apple and La Ratte.

Fresh organic Ginger Root and Turmeric Root.

A freshly-stocked londonfermentary.com fridge.

Radicchio Treviso

Photo ©Evie Saffron Strands

Writing from the viewpoint of the first week of January, here is the produce we expect to have for you in the first month of the New Year:  

Tender pink stems of Yorkshire Forced Rhubarb, Blood Oranges for juicing and Seville Oranges for making bitter marmalade and buttery curd and deep-red Pomegranates will all be here throughout the month. 

You can expect to see crunchy, salty Camone and Marinda Winter Tomatoes too.

The Citrus will get ever-more interesting as the month progresses with our longed-for Sicilian fruits, including Tarocco Oranges, arriving at last.

The season for the Mediterranean succulent Barba di Frate/Agretti/Monk’s Beard, which pairs so well with fish, has just started so you will find this on our shelves.

Varieties of bitter-leaved Italian Chicória including Puntarelle (Catalogna) and Cime di Rapa along with colourful bitter-sweet Radicchio and, milder, Endive will continue to arrive.

British Brassicas including Savoy Cabbage, spectacular green and purple hued January King, several varieties of Kale, including blistered-leaved Black Cabbage (Cavolo Nero), Brussels Sprouts and Brussels Tops will be happy in our cold winter.

English Purple Sprouting Broccoli, Cauliflower and swirling lime-green Romanesco with the creaminess of cauliflower and taste of mild broccoli will be in too.  

British Root vegetables, of course, including Celeriac, Jerusalem Artichokes, Swede, Beetroot and organic Heritage Carrots.

There should be English Leeks too.

Potato varieties will include Cyprus and Desiree, Maris Piper, and waxy-fleshed Pink Fir Apple and La Ratte.

Those stalwarts of the cold months Winter Squash and Pumpkins will be available throughout the month.

Dessert Apple and Cooking Apple varieties will be in from our Kent farmer, though pears will be coming from farther afield now.  

As usual we will have fresh organic Ginger Root and Turmeric Root which we also use at  londonfermentary.com  

Cavolo Nero/Black Cabbage

Photo ©Puntarelle&Co Ltd

GOOD TO KNOW: 

*** Puntarelle & Co will be back from holidays and trading normally from 12/13 January 2018 ***

Agretti/ Barba di frate /Monk’s Beard

Photo ©Evie Saffron Strands

The Mediterranean vegetable Agretti, also known as Barba di frate or Monk’s Beard has the mineral sharpness of spinach with an added grassy succulence that compares with English Samphire.  Boiled briefly in salted water, it makes a fantastic accompaniment to fish and is excellent added to a fish broth.  If you want to make this vegetable the main event, rather than an addition, here’s a simple idea that can be used in two different ways:

Agretti with Anchovy Butter

(Serves 2)

1 Bunch of Agretti

60g (2 oz) unsalted butter

1 small tin (around 50g) anchovies

Pepper

Wash the Agretti well, trim off any tough roots before adding to boiling salted water.  Cook for 1-2 minutes, drain and refresh in a bowl of cold water.

Melt the butter gently, drain the anchovies of their oil and add the fish to the butter.  Cook, stirring, just until the anchovies break down to form a butter sauce.  

Drain the Agretti and add it to the sauce with a grinding of pepper.  Heat through gently.

To serve:     Pile onto two slices of toasted bread 

OR

Add cooked spaghetti, linguine or other ribbon pasta and toss through the sauce to coat the pasta, adding a spoonful or two of pasta water to loosen the mix.  Top with fried breadcrumbs.