Courgettes and other Summer Squash

Courgettes and other Summer Squash

Photo ©Evie Saffron Strands

Courgettes and other Summer Squash

Courgettes come under the category of Summer Squash which are all fruits of the Cucurbita family.  They are with us until late autumn culminating in large marrows suitable for stuffing, then the hard-skinned varieties take over to see us through winter.  They range from the most familiar long, thin, smooth-skinned fruits which come in dark green, yellow and white/pale green, through the distinctly ridged Cocozelle to the round tennis ball sized ‘Ronde’ types which can be very pale to dark green. The round, scalloped Pattypan and pale yellow Crookneck are Summer Squash too and then there is the Spaghetti Squash.  The family also includes the Tromboncino, a long, slender, sinuous pale-green squash.  Its dense, tasty flesh is particularly good sliced and eaten raw.  When we can get it we bring this in from Italy but its trombone-shape makes it an inefficient squash to transport so most remains for home consumption.  

Late spring/early summer sees the squash flowers starting to appear on our shelves.  They are good tossed in hot butter with new season vegetables or stuffed with ricotta, dipped in a light tempura batter and deep fried.  A little later they arrive with their tiny fruits attached and are delicious given the same treatment but without any stuffing.  The fruits are versatile.  They can sliced, layered with tomatoes and basil and baked for a gratin, added to a vegetable stew like Ratatouille, or chopped and used for a risotto, adding a few sliced blossoms at the end if you have them.  They make a surprisingly creamy textured soup cooked up with a little onion and potato – a handful of basil, dill or fennel leaves adds flavour.  Chop and fry with onions in olive oil, add oregano, thyme or basil, maybe a little cream or an egg, and you have a pasta sauce.  The Italians have a simple and delicious way with fried courgettes – Zucchini Scapece – meaning courgettes marinaded in vinegar and mint.  Sliced thinly, Summer Squash are delicious served raw paired with ricotta or goat’s curd and toasted pinenuts or hazelnuts.  They can also be stuffed and baked, but maybe that’s best kept for the large marrows.

As yet we’ve never been offered any English grown Tromboncino but we are now well into the English courgette and summer squash season with lots of interesting and tasty varieties coming through our doors.  

Coco de Paimpol - Coco Beans

Coco de Paimpol

Photo ©Puntarelle&Co Ltd

Coco de Paimpol

It’s early, but the first of the Coco de Paimpol have arrived.  These semi-dry white haricot beans have an AOP designation of origin so only beans grown in a small coastal area of Brittany can be named Coco de Paimpol.  The temperate climate in this area allows for a long, slow growing period producing thin-skinned pods and a tender seed coating.  The plants are uprooted once the beans have reached the stage when the pods are just beginning to show signs of drying and then harvesting is done by hand. 

The pods of Coco de Paimpol are pale yellow/cream with light violet markings – less showy and smaller than a Borlotti.  The bean has a delicious nutty flavour and cooks quickly to a particularly creamy consistency. That creaminess pairs beautifully with fish – a pan-fried fillet of cod, or other white fish on a bed of Coco de Paimpol with, maybe, a few Girolles mushrooms would be my choice.  For a tasty, nutritious, vegetarian dish, pod the beans and cook them for 2-3 minutes.  Add them with a little of the cooking water to sliced onion which has been cooked in oil until soft, chopped tomato, thyme leaves, salt and pepper; pour into a gratin dish, cover with breadcrumbs and bake in the oven to brown the crumbs and bring all the flavours together.

Fermenting with Sandor Katz

Elena with Sandor Katz

Photo ©Evie Saffron Strands

Fermenting with Sandor Katz

On that meltingly hot Sunday of 18th June I raced through the streets of Hackney to catch up with Sandor Katz.  Recognised as one of the world leaders in fermented vegetables, this was someone I had to meet and his Fermentation Seminar, as part of London Gastronomy Seminars, was the perfect opportunity.  In a packed and steamy upper floor I learned his perspective on the fermented vegetables I have grown up with and now produce for sale. 

As Sandor explained, it’s a mere 150 years since science brought us insights into how fermentation works, yet there is evidence that man has been successfully fermenting for at least 10,000 years.  Ferments are foods associated with survival as they provide nourishment through the lean months of winter.  Sandor pointed out how ‘Pickles’, where the vegetables are effectively sterilised, are often confused with ‘Ferments’.  Fermenting, in contrast, actively encourages the healthy bacteria naturally present.  Through bacterial transformation toxic compounds are removed, food is preserved, made easier to digest and flavour is added. The health benefits of ferments derive from the activity of pre-digestion where the proteins are broken down into amino acids by lactic acid bacteria (so called because this was first observed in milk).  

Vegetables are fermented by wild fermentation – no deliberately added bacterias, simply utilising what is naturally present.  Sandor pointed out that salt adds flavour but is not essential and length of fermentation is according to preference.  Austrians typically expect their Sauerkraut, for example, to be soft.  Others prefer more crunch.  Most Sauerkraut, he reminded us, is now pasteurised and therefore has none of the beneficial qualities of its wild-fermented original.  

Food safety was discussed and Sandor re-iterated that the US Department of Agriculture cannot find one example of food poisoning from wild fermented vegetables in the US or in countries they share data with.  Science has proved that if fermenting is carried out correctly, bad bacteria like salmonella and e-coli are unable to survive in such an acid environment. 

I came away from the seminar reassured to find I have a fellow natural fermenter spreading the word on the fascinating world of Ferments.  

Broad Beans

Broad Beans

Photo ©Evie Saffron Strands

BROAD BEANS

Our first Broad Beans of spring usually come from Italy and, this year, they began to arrive in the first week of March.  Now English Broad Beans are with us.  

Very early small bean pods can be cooked whole and eaten simply smothered in melted butter.  As they become larger, they need to be removed from their pods.  Late Broad Beans are best podded, boiled and then popped out of their grey-green outer skins to reveal the vibrant green kernel.  This removes not just toughness but the bitterness that can become more pronounced when the season is ending.  Even late crops can be tasty if treated right.  By this time the kernels may have taken on a mealy texture but can be pureed and spread on warm toast, used for a pasta sauce or be added to soups.  Broad Beans have a particular affinity with bacon so what’s nicer than a warm salad of cooked beans with new potatoes, bacon and peppery rocket or English watercress.

Seasonal Produce News

Kohlrabi                    Photo ©Evie Saffron Strands

JUNE

May was the month of Artichokes, Tropea Onions, Fennel, Fine Beans and Courgettes from Italy; Grelot Onions, Wet Garlic, radishes and Watercress from France; English Asparagus, recovering from everything the weather could throw at it, and early Strawberries with real flavour arriving from Kent.   We had wonderful English foraged Sea Vegetables too.  The second half of the month brought the first tender English Artichokes and, in the final week, the first picking of English peas, so sweet we just wanted to eat them straight from their pods.

Purple Ligurian Basil          Photo ©Puntarelle&Co Ltd

In the first week of JUNE, as I write, this is what stands out for us on the shelves of Puntarelle & Co:

Several varieties of sun-ripened Italian Tomatoes along with flat, pink Cipollini Onions which roast so well, great quality new season Garlic for keeping.  

Italian Borlotti Beans, Fennel and Courgettes – Round, Romano, Yellow and Green.  A number of forms of Italian Cicoria and Aubergines and both Green and Purple Ligurian Basil.  We also have the first supply of Tenerumi (leaves of the Cucuzza Zucchini) from Italy for pasta and soups.

English new season produce is becoming more available.  We have Asparagus from our Kent grower coming in at better prices now we are well into the season.  We have English Watercress direct from the grower, Artichokes, Peas, Broad Beans, Cucumbers, Radishes, Spring Onions, Spinach and juicy Kohlrabi.  

Small red/yellow Watermelons and the large Greek variety liked so much by our customers.  The special thin-skinned, orange-fleshed Melons from Italy now join the Cantaloupe Melons.  We have new season Sicilian Green Lemons, prized in particular for their highly fragrant zest.  We also have the first large, plump Green Figs from Italy.  There are various vibrant Fresh Herbs along with English Strawberries, Raspberries and the first of the Gooseberries.  Italian Peaches, Nectarines and Apricots are already plentiful and French Cherries are starting to arrive.  

Tenerumi / Leaves of the Cucuzza Zucchini    Photo ©Puntarelle&Co Ltd

So, what new season produce can we expect to come through our doors through JUNE?

English Broad Beans and Peas and, perhaps, the first English Fennel bulbs.  The Asparagus from our Kent grower will take us up to the last week of June with lower prices than in May.

Watercress sourced direct from Kingfisher Farm in Surrey, who have been growing watercress for more than 150 years, should be with us throughout the month. 

New Potatoes from Jersey, France and Cornwall.

British Strawberries, Raspberries and Gooseberries will be benefiting from some summer sun in June.

English-grown Herbs – Mint, Coriander, Parsley and Dill in particular as well as Cucumbers, Radishes, Spring Onions and Spinach.

Crunchy French Grelot Onions will continue through the month and we will have a good supply of Round, Romana, Trompetta, White, Yellow and Green Courgettes and Tenerumi (leaves of the Cucuzza Zucchini) from Italy.  There will be Borlotti Beans and a greater variety of Aubergines this month.  

Even sweeter varieties of sun-ripened Italian Tomatoes.  The supply of flat, pink Cipollini Onions for roasting should continue as should quality new season Garlic and crunchy Kohlrabi.  

We should continue to have small red/yellow Watermelons, Cantaloupe Melons and new season Sicilian Green Lemons, prized in particular for their highly fragrant zest.

Peaches, Flat Peaches, Nectarines, Apricots and Green Figs from Italy.

We expect both Red and Rainier Cherries from France as well as White and Blood varieties of both Peaches and Nectarines (pêche de vigne & nectavigne).  

Plums from France and Italy should be arriving and Green Almonds are now in season.  

By late June we should have English Cherries arriving.

Smoky Leekchi Ferments                                    Photo ©Puntarelle@Co

NEW on our shelves:

Focusing on our Fermented Vegetables range this month we have ‘Smoky Leekchi’, a ferment of Leeks, smoked chilli, garlic and ginger.  Particularly delicious paired with dishes involving chicken or pulses.   

Flat Peaches               Photo ©Evie Saffron Strands    

We select the best peaches we can get but early peaches can be a little less yielding than you might like.  Their season arrives along with a vibrant array of fresh herbs including Lemon Verbena.  Peaches have a particular affinity with the ‘sherbet lemon’ quality of this herb.  Here is a recipe that’s perfect for those peaches that need a little heat to bring out their best but works for ripe peaches too:

Baked Peaches with Lemon Verbena
(serves 4)

4 Unripe round or flat peaches
100ml water + the same volume of caster sugar
4 leaves of tender fresh lemon verbena (or 2-3 basil leaves)
A handful of raspberries for each plate (optional)

Heat the oven to 180C (160C fan)/Gas 4.  Lightly butter an ovenproof dish.  
Cut the peaches in half and remove the stones.  Place the fruit cut-side up in the dish.
Dissolve the sugar in the water over a medium heat and add the lemon verbena leaves.  Pour the contents of the pan over the cut peaches.  Bake in the oven for 20-30 minutes, depending on the size of the peaches.  If the fruits are particularly hard, you can cover the dish with foil to speed up cooking.  Baste the peaches a couple of times during cooking and, if they are not softening, turn them a couple of times in the syrup.  

Serve with the cooking juices spooned over and, maybe, a fresh leaf of verbena.  If you have raspberries, add a few to each plate.  Cream to serve is good.

English Strawberries

English Strawberries

We have picked up our second harvest of outdoor-grown Strawberries from our preferred farmer in Kent today.  The variety is the same as the one we had last Saturday for you - ‘Jubilee’ – which grows particularly well in the growing conditions of Kent.  

This distinctly heart-shaped variety is naturally sweet and juicy with just the right level of acidity so we are very pleased to have them again.  Picking is only just getting going so, rest assured, we will select the best flavour varieties as the season progresses.  

Strawberries are naturally high in vitamin C and this variety is particularly good as it requires little, if any, sugar to bring out its best.  In fact a light grinding of pepper, instead, may be all you need.  Strawberries also pair well with rhubarb and outdoor-grown rhubarb is at its best now.   Just a few berries added when cooking brings a wonderful perfume to a dish of rhubarb. 

May News 2017

SEASONAL PRODUCE NEWS – MAY 2017

English Asparagus     Photo ©Evie Saffron Strands

MAY

April proved to be a stop/start month for home-grown crops but English Wild Garlic and Nettle Tops were particular favourites of our customers.  The Asparagus harvest began a full three weeks earlier than normal, only for the crop in many parts of the country to then be hit by late frosts.  With conditions now improving, we should see English Asparagus from our Kent grower throughout May.  We had Broad Beans and Peas from Italy.  The peas in particular have been much fuller and sweeter over the past couple of weeks.  Glorious plump Wet Violet Garlic arrived on cue from France in the second half of April and, at last, we received some sweeter tomato varieties from both Italy and France. 

Sorrel  Photo ©Evie Saffron Strands

At the beginning of MAY, as I write this, you will find at Puntarelle & Co:

Italian Spinach and Chard alongside particularly good Sorrel.  

New Potatoes from Jersey, France and Cornwall.

New season Purple Aubergines from Italy, including the elongated purple and white striped variety, and fragrant Fennel bulbs.  

Supplies of Green and Purple Artichokes from Italy are slowing, to be replaced by French crops this month.  

Again, we have chosen French Grelot Onions this week.

Italian Roman Courgettes and smooth-skinned Yellow and White varieties along with French round courgettes.

Broad Beans and Peas from Italy are still arriving, the peas fuller and sweeter now.  These are joined by the first Italian Fine Green Beans.

From Sicily we have firm, crunchy, spiky Cucumbers – perfect for pickling – and, in response to customer requests, the first of the Melons and small, sweet red-yellow Watermelons.

English green Asparagus from our Kent grower, as well as white French and Italian varieties.

Outdoor-grown English Rhubarb.  This fruit/vegetable is admittedly not as eye-catching as the early pink forced one, but is a far better proposition for a rhubarb crumble.  

Early Spanish Peaches and Nectarines are in, as are Italian Apricots and French outdoor-grown Strawberries, and Italian Cherries and Nespoli.

Meaty, yellow ‘Pineapple’ Tomatoes have arrived from France this week, and we also have other colourful Heritage varieties.

We have English harvests of Spinach, Salad Leaves, Cucumbers and Radishes as well as fresh Herbs - Mint, Coriander and Parsley.

Radishes  Photo ©Evie Saffron Strands

So, what new season produce can we expect to come through our doors in MAY?

Asparagus and outdoor-grown Rhubarb from our Kent grower throughout May.  English Spring Onions continue.

Given a little warm weather we will be welcoming English Broad Beans and Peas, later in the month to take over from French and Italian varieties.  

Small, crunchy English Cucumbers will be with us through May, along with Radishes and Spinach.  We are particularly looking forward to introducing English Watercress direct from the grower later in the month.  You can expect lots of fresh, vibrant Herbs.  Hopefully, we will see some English Wild Hops too, if we have some warmer weather, though these will be fleeting.  

Meaty, yellow ‘Pineapple’ Tomatoes and colourful Heritage ones are now here from France and we expect more varieties with real flavour as the month progresses.

French Apricots, hopefully some Bergeron, take over from the Italian and Spanish ones later in the month.  We have had some promising English harvests over the past two years so we may have some for you in June/July.

Peaches and Nectarines from Italy will follow the Spanish this month, later joined by French ‘blood’ varieties.

Strawberries from Italy, Spain and France are tasting good, and we may have English-grown fruit from our Kent grower in mid-May. 

 Cherries from Italy, Spain and, later, France.  

Towards the end of the month we could have English Gooseberries and Raspberries.

Courgette fruits and flowers and Fennel from both Italy and France.

Wet Garlic from France and Italy will continue, as will Italian Tropea Onions and French Grelot Onions. 

The first new season Borlotti Beans and Yellow Fine Beans from Italy. 

 We expect French Artichokes to take over from Italian chokes.  

New Potatoes from Jersey, France and Cornwall.

Morel Mushrooms will be available.

We will have foraged Sea Spinach this month.

Tarragon   Photo ©Evie Saffron Strands

NEW on our shelves:

Joining our Fermented Vegetables range this month are Tarragon Infused Mixed Vegetables; jars of Savoy Cabbage with lemon zest and dill; and Sicilian Kumquats which have fermented to a salty, freshness which we recommend for use in Stews and Tagines or sliced thinly into salads. 

With the arrival of the first Italian Fine Beans and harvests of fine, young English Spinach and watercress joining the New Potato crops, we offer a warm salad recipe to take us into May.  This is one of those salads that can be adapted throughout spring and summer according to what produce is available.  You need green leaves, waxy potatoes, fresh beans (asparagus works too) and a little protein like Chorizo, bacon, pancetta, anchovy or boiled chopped egg.  Here is a suggestion using what is available on our shelves right now:

A Late Spring Salad  Photo ©Evie Saffron Strands

A Late Spring Salad

(Serves 4)

300g Fine Green Beans

800g waxy potatoes (e.g. Jersey Royals, La Ratte)

250g cooking chorizo

2 good handfuls of young spinach leaves or watercress (or a mixture), washed and dried.

Dressing:

2 tablespoons of Sherry Vinegar

Salt and pepper to taste

6-7 tablespoons Olive Oil

Wash the potatoes (skin on or off, as you prefer) and boil for 15-20 minutes until cooked.
Cut off the top of beans, wash and boil in salted water until just cooked(2-3 minutes).  

Drain the beans and plunge them into cold water to retain the colour before cutting them in half and drying them.
Thickly slice the chorizo and fry in a hot pan until softened and slightly coloured.
Mix your Dressing in a large serving bowl.
Drain and slice the potatoes thickly before adding them to the dressing while still warm.  Add the cooked beans and the chorizo and stir.  

Add the spinach (or other) leaves.  Mix gently and serve.